Óbidos

Óbidos, about an hour north of Lisbon just inland from the coast, is another charming medieval town. It has yet another well-preserved Moorish castle on high ground that offers great sightseeing and there are plenty of shops and restaurants, both inside and outside the castle walls. Just north of the town is the Lagoa de Óbidos, a large saltwater lagoon at the confluence of the Atlantic and the Foz do Arelho river system.

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We stayed at the Rio do Prado hotel, a resort alternative with low-key, private cabins that prides itself on its restaurant that serves many locally-grown foods. The staff was very attentive and one evening, because there was a large group in the restaurant, we were served a delicious meal (the fish in Portugal is universally great) in our room. A sister property, The Literary Man hotel, situated in the old town center claims to have the largest book collection of any hotel in the world. I believe it. There are shelves upon shelves of books, many in English and of all types, lining the walls of this lovely old building.

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We will always remember Óbidos as the place where we discovered Ginjinha, usually referred to simply as Ginja (JIN-ya). This popular liqueur, made from sour grapes infused with alcohol, sugar and other ingredients, is associated with Óbidos (the Morello cherry grows locally) and you will often see the product labeled "Ginja d'Óbidos" as if to establish its authenticity. It is available throughout Portugal but appears to be most popular in the north. While the locals typically drink it in liqueur glasses it is also served in little chocolate cups. This has become something of an obsession for us when we are in Portugal and is a regular nightcap.